Author Topic: Battle for Jefferies' land: How a 19th-century naturalist became a cause célèbre in Wiltshire  (Read 679 times)

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Offline Jean

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This article in today's Independent says it all...
 
http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/nature/battle-for-jefferies-land-how-a-19thcentury-naturalist-became-a-cause-clbre-in-wiltshire-2332054.html
 
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Battle for Jefferies' land: How a 19th-century naturalist became a cause célèbre in Wiltshire
By Jack Watkins


Friday, 5 August 2011

 
They didn't do bestseller lists in Richard Jefferies' day, but even if they had, it's hard to imagine him submitting to the publicity interviews and book signings faced by the modern commercial author.

In fact, Jefferies, a reclusive, unworldly man – "long, languid and loitering", according to his biographer, Edward Thomas – was a journalist and nature writer of remarkable purity and intensity of vision. Even before his death, from tuberculosis aged 38 in 1887, cult rather than mainstream status was always his most likely destiny.

However, after a period when they seemed to fade from view, Jefferies' books are being read once more. They carry heightened value at a time when a backsliding David Cameron has gone from vowing to make his government "the greenest ever" to preparing a loosening of the planning rules that could unleash a bonfire of the countryside.

In his introduction to a new edition of Wild Life in a Southern County, first published in 1879, Richard Mabey refers to Jefferies' "electric attentiveness, a noticing that is hard to aspire to", and says that he was "sending a message in a bottle from a fast-disappearing country". However, that message seems not to have registered with those entrusted with guarding the integrity of the immediate landscape which charged his creative output.

Jefferies grew up and, until he married aged 25, lived on a tiny farm at Coate, near Swindon. Here his father kept a small dairy herd, but while Jefferies showed little interest in helping out on the farm, he inherited his father's love of nature, and spent his days exploring the surrounding meadows and hills, studying flora and fauna and seeking out archaeological sites, while honing the distinctive earth philosophy that elevated his work beyond mere observation.

Today Coate farmhouse, its outbuildings and orchard, all so vividly described in his novel Amaryllis at the Fair, survive as the Richard Jefferies Museum. Beyond the ha-ha, dug by Jefferies Snr to prevent the cattle straying into the orchard, is the ancient hedgerow recognised by Jefferies in Wild Life in a Southern County as "the highway of the birds". Over the ridge beyond is the reservoir of Coate Water, the scene for the mock battles of his children's novel Bevis. On the skyline is Liddington Hill, crowned by an iron-age hillfort, one of the numerous tumuli of the North Wiltshire hills which the writer memorably wrote of as being "alive with the dead". It was while lying on the slopes of Liddington Hill that Jefferies experienced the first of what he termed the "soul experiences" leading to his extraordinary autobiography, The Story of My Heart.

Developers have been eyeing the area around Coate Water for years, however, encouraged by a general refusal of the council's planning department to recognise Jefferies as "a major writer". A current proposal to build 900 homes and a business park was recently rejected by councillors – stunned by the strength of an opposition campaign which has seen protest letters written in the Times Literary Supplement and a petition signed by over 52,000 people. While that rejection was the first time, says Jean Saunders, secretary of the Richard Jefferies Society, that there had been any recognition of the cultural landscape value of Coate, the developers have appealed and a public inquiry is to be held.

That it should have got this far is testimony enough to Swindon Council's failure to appreciate its local heritage, but in refusing to accept Jefferies as a major writer, they turned the issue into a matter of national concern.

The list of artistic figures inspired by Jefferies is long and distinguished. Among literary names alone they have included Thomas, Henry Williamson (a past president of the Jefferies Society) and John Fowles. Andrew Motion has described Jefferies as "a prose-poet of the English landscape and a pioneer environmentalist". Like Thomas Hardy, Jefferies was alarmed by the pace of social change in late 19th-century England. Yet he was not some parochial figure, tiptoeing "feather-footed through the plashy fen", like William Boot in Evelyn Waugh's Scoop.

Nature Near London (1883) was written to alert Londoners to the countryside which lay on their doorstep, but Jefferies was not anti-progress, admitting he dreamt in London quite as much as in woodland: "I like the solitude of the hills and the hum of the most crowded city; I dislike little towns and villages." What he found intolerable was the suburban conformity and neatness – "artful niceness" – that was spreading like a suffocating blanket from the city's outskirts.

Edward Thomas thought that, whereas the writing of Gilbert White, the "godfather" of nature writers, was weighed down by the dead-weight of "matter of fact", Jefferies was the first nature writer whose essays led us to his own personality.

However, the major relevance of Jefferies today is surely that he found nature everywhere, pushing up through the cracks on the busiest pavement. In The Life of the Fields (1884) he describes watching the pigeons in the forecourt of the British Museum, for whom Robert Smirke's great neo-Grecian portico was no entrance to a temple of learning but "merely a rock pierced with convenient openings".

Officialdom, if it had its way, would like to parcel up the best parts of the countryside into "approved" areas, facilitating a developers' profitable free-for-all over the remainder, having thought it sold us the dummy that anything undesignated must therefore be without value.

But Jefferies, reared on the homely terrain at Coate, urged us to seek uncommon species in common places. A commonplace flower held as much delight for him as a rare one. No wonder the planners of Swindon would have us believe he wasn't a major writer. He was their spiritual enemy, and his prose still hounds them from his grave, 120 years after his death.

For information on Richard Jefferies and the campaign to save "Jefferies land", visit www.jefferiesland.blogspot.com

The other late, great nature writers

REV GILBERT WHITE (1720-93)

His The Natural History of Selborne, never out of print since first publication in 1788, is a work of science that is also a literary classic. By basing it on first-hand observation, not generalised philosophising, as was prevalent at the time, White pioneered the genre of natural history writing.

He was a Hampshire vicar who spent most of his life in the tiny village of Selborne. His home, the Wakes (now a museum), together with the Great Mead, Church Meadow and the beech hanger where he carried out many studies, are still evocative of his time.

JOHN CLARE (1793-1864)

The so-called peasant poet was the self-taught son of an illiterate labourer. After a brief period of fame, disillusionment at the failure of his poems to sell precipitated a mental collapse, and he had two spells in an asylum. Like Jefferies, another outsider hero, he detested the landowners he felt were exploiting the countryside for their own profit. The cottage in which he lived for much of his life, at Helpston, near Peterborough, recently opened as a heritage centre.

WH HUDSON (1841-1922)

The most exotic of "English" nature writers, Hudson grew up in Argentina, roaming the pampas plains and keeping the company of gaucho herdsmen. A keen ornithologist, he discovered a new species of tyrant bird in a Patagonian river valley, subsequently named Knipolegus Hudsoni.

Arriving in England, aged 32, in 1874, he struggled for years to get work published. However, Nature in Downland (1900) – vividly describing the South Downs – arguably wears better than the widely acclaimed A Shepherd's Life (1910) in which his affinity with the solitary shepherds of the Wiltshire Downs – soul brothers of the Argentine herdsmen – is clear.

HILAIRE BELLOC (1870-1953)

A belligerent Roman Catholic apologist and satirist of the political classes, his country writing, showing a gentler side, has been almost overlooked.

French-born, from the age of eight Belloc's childhood was spent playing in the chalky lanes beneath the Sussex Downs at Slindon, whose swaying beechwoods he'd describe "noisy in the loud October". He returned to live there in adulthood, then at nearby Shipley, with its windmill at the bottom of the garden. More celebrant of the outdoors than naturalist, his poems – "lift up your hearts in Gumber, laugh the Weald" – celebrate the West Sussex Downs with the heady exultation of the keen walker he was.

EDWARD THOMAS (1878-1917)

Like Richard Jefferies, Edward Thomas was alert to nature even while passing through the busy throng of London's West End. A walker and cyclist, he wrote books such as The South Country (1906) and In Pursuit of Spring (1914) before turning to poetry on the eve of the First World War. His biography of Jefferies is still probably the best, not least because it was written at a time when many of those who remembered him were still alive.

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Offline Alex

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What a brilliant sensitive article.

Kind of restores some faith in the media.

Online Muggins

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Remember that it was an ordinary family that built the Ark but a bunch of professionals built the Titanic.

Online I Could Do That

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Makes you proud to be from Swindon.
 O0
Better than trying to big up a water feature or a traffic island
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Online I Could Do That

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I've just seen apartments built around Coate Water Reservoir.

I haven't been on the pop.

BBC Points West just used it as an extreme scenario of councils selling off assets.

All part of the Eric Pickles reports.
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Offline Jean

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I've just seen apartments built around Coate Water Reservoir.

I haven't been on the pop.

BBC Points West just used it as an extreme scenario of councils selling off assets.

All part of the Eric Pickles reports.


Really?

Reminds me of your prediction of what Coate Water would look like in years to come, after development, in all its graphic horror. The portrayal of supermarket trolleys in a stagnant pond where not far off the mark either.
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Online I Could Do That

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This might be the link to watch it again.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/mobile/iplayer/episode/b012yl6t

I haven't got access to a pc with Flashplayer at this very moment so I couldn't search through it.

Be warned. If it is the right bit of footage, it looks very real. Keep a sick bucket and a cold compress handy
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Online Muggins

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Saw it on the tele too ICDT, it was shocking, but only a clever bit of photoshop.   People interviewed were not too keen on the idea of selling it off though.  Not that there is a plan for that, it was just used as an example.
Remember that it was an ordinary family that built the Ark but a bunch of professionals built the Titanic.

Online I Could Do That

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Yes, but I'm popping over to Coate. Just to check  ;D
It was cleverly done and a good example of developers not having the public interest at heart.

It is good that Coate is getting some positive publicity lately. Something for future planners to bear in mind O0
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Offline Jean

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I've tried sending (by e-mail) the Inde article to various people in the planning department, but it keeps coming back as SPAM. I can't think what the Council's spam filter is picking up to take it out.
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Online Muggins

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Jean, Would you like to forward it to me and I'll try? 

things done't come back to me as spam from SBC, but I do usually get a few "I'm not at my desk until...."
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Offline Mart

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The description 'fat twat' is made for some people.

Am I on the right thread?
As the light changed from red to green to yellow and back to red again, I sat there thinking about life. Was it nothing more than a bunch of honking and yelling? Sometimes it seemed that way.

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I don't know Mart, are you?
Remember that it was an ordinary family that built the Ark but a bunch of professionals built the Titanic.

Offline Mart

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Think I might be.

If the spandex man girdle fits......
As the light changed from red to green to yellow and back to red again, I sat there thinking about life. Was it nothing more than a bunch of honking and yelling? Sometimes it seemed that way.

Online Muggins

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Have you thought of trying one of those for your bad back?  That's what ought to make a come back - corsets.  :hippy:

What's the betting that the next ones to post are Chav or Booby bingo!
If you re looking for a photo Chav, none of this namby pamby red with black lace stuff, get us the real deal (like your (great) gran used to wear).
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Offline swindoncentric

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Seems that some in Swindon Borough Council are ready to embrace the importance of Richard Jefferies, with a single step on a couldn't-be-better-for-reasons-of-metaphor actual footpath...

Blogged here : http://swindoncentric.blogspot.com/2011/08/forward-swindon-makes-worthy-nod-to.html

Offline Jean

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Seems that some in Swindon Borough Council are ready to embrace the importance of Richard Jefferies, with a single step on a couldn't-be-better-for-reasons-of-metaphor actual footpath...

Blogged here : http://swindoncentric.blogspot.com/2011/08/forward-swindon-makes-worthy-nod-to.html


The footpath is super and we (in the Richard Jefferies Society) are so grateful to Mike Pringle for making this happen. I can't tell you how many people struggle to find the Museum from Coate Water (and from everywhere else, come to that!).  The path will be known as the "Great Hedge Path" as it follows the line of the hedge that Jefferies so-named and wrote about in so many of his works.  Eventually there will be another row of trees planted so that people walk through a tree-lined path rather than look at the cars parked in the over-flow car park...

The Museum is open every Sunday from 2-5pm until the end of September as well as the second Wednesday of the month from 10am to 4pm throughout the year. You won't find cream teas available normally (only for the Festival), but we hope that this will be a regular feature one day. Do come along. I'm on duty this Sunday and I would love to meet you! :-*
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Offline Jean

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the battle now reaches The Times
« Reply #17 on: September 02, 2011, 11:07:20 PM »

And now the campaign has reached The Times:

The Times  - 3 September 2011
 
On a green front line between urban sprawl and motorway, old foes square up for battle
 

Simon de Bruxelles
 
A tawny owl sits in a tree partly hidden by ivy, indifferent to the walkers below. A stone’s throw away, at the edge of a lake, kingfishers dive for small fish while grey herons eye the larger ones. In the distance the silhouette of an Iron Age fort rises above Liddington Hill.

It is a scene that would have delighted Richard Jefferies, the 19th-century author and naturalist, whose farmhouse is preserved as a museum next to the country park.

But things have changed since Jefferies played here as a boy. Directly in front of his former home is a busy dual carriageway and when that traffic dies down you can hear the constant roar of the M4 less than a mile away. Between the two roads is an expanse of green fields bordering the Coate Water Country Park. It is the last buffer between the fast-expanding sprawl of Swindon and the motorway. It is also the next battlefield for conservationists and developers.

Campaigners fear that changes to the planning system proposed by the Government will make it easier to get permission for developments such as the one proposed for Coate, and harder for local authorities to resist them. The Government says that a “presumption in favour of sustainable development” is the “golden thread” that runs through its future planning policy.

Felicity Cobb, a retired teacher, has single-handedly collected 18,000 signatures for a petition calling for the fields at Coate to be protected. The total is already 52,000, equivalent to one in four of the Wiltshire town’s population. But even with the support of scores of figures from the world of art and literature, including Sir Peter Blake, Sir Andrew Motion and Joanne Harris, it may not be enough to stop the fields that Jefferies wrote about disappearing beneath hundreds of new houses.

Mrs Cobb said: “We thought we had seen them off four years ago when the developers lost a planning inquiry, but they have come back again. The developers are like dogs, constantly yapping and nipping at your ankles. We are just amateurs, they are professionals.”

In the country park, there is no difficulty persuading visitors that the views across the adjacent fields need to be preserved. “There are already enough housing estates, we are surrounded by them, do we really need another one?” asked Mrs Cobb. “No one here wants it.”

She became involved in the campaign when a previous application was submitted for Coate that included a seven-storey glass pyramid and 1,900 homes. It was thrown out by a planning inspector. Now the developers are back with a new plan.

This time the Swindon Gateway Partnership, an alliance of Redrow and Persimmon Homes, has come back with a scaled-down proposal for 890 homes, shops, a school and 15 hectares of “employment space”. After a public outcry the plan was rejected by Swindon Borough Council. But the developers refused to give up, and a new planning inquiry will be held in November.

A walk down Dayhouse Lane is a stroll in the country. But across the fields there is a glimpse of the future: the grey, slab-like Great Western Hospital, the only development so far permitted in this stretch of countryside. When the hospital was first proposed, it was argued that the rural views would help patients to recover. Even those who opposed the housing estate supported it. But developers turned the argument around, pointing out that the area’s rural character had now been compromised.

Jean Saunders, the secretary of the Richard Jefferies Society who runs the Save Coate Campaign, said: “The hospital was the Trojan Horse that opened up what had been a protected area.” One Trojan Horse was swiftly followed by another. In 2004, the University of Bath proposed a £500 million move to a brand new campus at Coate.

The borough council was delighted, and withdrew the area’s status as protected landscape. Two years later, the university abandoned the idea of moving, but developers had smelt blood.

Mrs Saunders has been fighting development at Coate for more than 20 years. The campaigners’ Alamo is the Site of Special Scientific Interest at Coate Water, which they fear will be compromised. “SSSIs are our rainforests, we need to fight to protect them,” she said.

The change to “presumption in favour” will make it difficult for planners such as Swindon council to oppose development on unprotected agricultural land. The town is already encircled by some of the largest private housing estates in Britain, and Coate may be the next to be engulfed. Coate Water Park could be left as a small island of countryside in an ocean of anonymous housing.

“It would end up like a town park,” Mrs Cobb said. “It wouldn’t feel like the country any more.”
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Offline Jean

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Offline MsD Meanor

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Well done Jean and Felicity-  simple and factual- and asking very pertinent questions.

"Sustainable" from the mouths of developers  is only ever going to be a weasle word /spin/any excuse to make more money. It certainly has completely different connotations to the words from a human perspective or an ecological one.




Offline Jean

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And now the fight to save Jefferies Land has got news coverage in the Guardian and Country Life! We've never had so much national publicity, but will it do any good?

http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/booksblog/2011/oct/13/richard-jefferies-swindon-coate-water

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COUNTRY LIFE
October 12, 2011 page 42
Writers back Jefferies campaign
CAMPAIGNERS are fighting to save the landscape that inspired the Victorian nature writer Richard Jefferies (picture left). The author spent the first 27 years of his life at Coate Farm, near Swindon, Wiltshire. Visitors to the farmhouse, now a literary shrine, can still walk around the orchard vividly described in Amaryllis at the Fair and along the ancient hedgerow he called 'the highway of the birds'. Jean Saunders, secretary of the Richard Jefferies Society, says proposals to build 900 houses and a business park would affect countryside 'central to shaping the imaginative genius'. She argues that views towards and from Liddington Hill, on whose slopes Jefferies underwent the 'mystical' experiences described in The Story of My Heart, will also be lost. Several literary figures, including Richard Mabey and former Poet Laureate Andrew Motion, have supported the campaign (www.jefferiesland. blogspot.com), which includes a 52,000-signature petition. Councillors rejected the proposals earlier this year, but a public inquiry begins on November 15. Jack Watkins


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Offline Greengirl

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It won't do any harm and the more people read them, the more voices will be added to the growing movement not to accept the corporate ruling of our land.

To start to take power back, there are more good pages on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/350.org- where we can see how our wants as human beings are being eroded- and its time to change.

Our green spaces are a perfect example of most voices wanting things to remain green, against a few powerful and rich voices. Standing up for what we believe in is important now and will make a difference.